In Dallas, pool season doesn't officially start until Memorial Day for most families, but smart homeowners start their pool opening process in late March or early April. Getting ahead of the rush means you're not scrambling when the first hot weekend hits in late April. As a Certified Pool Operator (CPO) who's opened hundreds of Dallas-area pools, here's my step-by-step process.
Step 1: Remove and Clean the Pool Cover
Drain any standing water off the cover using a pump before removing it to avoid dumping dirty water into the pool. Lay the cover flat, scrub it with a mild soap solution, rinse thoroughly, and let it dry completely before folding and storing. A wet cover stored in a bag will grow mold and won't last more than a couple of seasons.
Step 2: Inspect for Winter Damage
Dallas winters can be surprisingly harsh. Walk the perimeter and look for: cracks in the pool deck or coping, damaged tiles, any visible plumbing leaks around the equipment pad, and the condition of the pump and filter. Check that all return jets, skimmer baskets, and the main drain cover are intact. A cracked main drain cover is a safety hazard and must be replaced before swimming.
Step 3: Reconnect Equipment and Prime the Pump
Reinstall the pump drain plugs and any equipment you winterized. Fill the pump strainer basket with water before starting the pump to prime it — running a dry pump even briefly can damage the seal. Open your return jets and skimmer valves slowly, then power on the pump. Listen for unusual noises in the first few minutes of operation.
Step 4: Test and Balance the Water Chemistry
This is where most DIY pool owners go wrong — they just dump in a bag of shock and call it a day. Proper water balance is a sequence, not a single step. Test your water first, then adjust in this specific order:
Water balancing sequence:
- Total Alkalinity first — target 80–120 ppm (alkalinity acts as a buffer for pH)
- pH second — target 7.4–7.6 (wait 4–6 hours after adjusting TA)
- Calcium Hardness — target 200–400 ppm (low calcium etches plaster, high calcium causes scale)
- Stabilizer/Cyanuric Acid — target 40–80 ppm (protects chlorine from UV breakdown in Dallas sun)
- Shock the pool last — use a non-chlorine shock or calcium hypochlorite at 1 lb per 10,000 gallons
Step 5: Clean and Backwash the Filter
For sand filters, do a thorough backwash before and after opening. For cartridge filters, remove the cartridges and soak them in a filter cleaning solution overnight. For DE filters, backwash and recharge with fresh diatomaceous earth. A clean filter is critical for clearing the cloudy water that's almost guaranteed after opening.
Step 6: Vacuum, Brush, and Circulate
Brush all walls and steps toward the main drain, then vacuum the pool — ideally to waste on a sand or DE filter to avoid recirculating debris. Run the pump continuously for 24–48 hours after opening, testing chemistry every 12 hours until the water is stable and clear.
Signs your water is ready to swim:
- Water is crystal clear (you can see a quarter on the bottom at the deep end)
- pH 7.4–7.6
- Free chlorine 1–3 ppm
- Total alkalinity 80–120 ppm
- No algae visible on walls or steps
Joey's Pro Tip: Don't wait until the water is green to call a pro. Green water means you have an established algae bloom that requires a heavy chemical treatment — which is significantly more expensive than a normal opening. If you see cloudiness or early algae growth, act immediately.
Rather have a CPO-certified pro handle your pool opening? I service pools throughout Dallas, Plano, Frisco, and surrounding areas. Call me at (214) 293-8857 for a seasonal pool opening quote.